3o6 THE GAY GENIUS and co-extensive with the universe. Completely at ease, he revels in the material well-being; fully aware of what is going around him, yet his mind is idle and free. When the room is full of guests, his only worry is that the barrels may run out; careless of all posthumous fame, the only weighty object seems to be that precious cup. Yod cannot make nightshirts out of pearls, nor subsist upon jades thai glow in the night. The best food fills your belly, but cannot stimulate your spirit; the best dress gives you warmth, but cannot delight your soul. Of all things in the universe, only This One enables you to transcend the material world. Truly, it is something that one cannot go without for a day. What is this intoxicating potion which intoxi- cates you and yet clarifies your mind, which sets you at ease with yourself and enables you to perceive the ultimate truths of life?" \ 1 I : Su was not only a connoisseur of liquor and a good sampler, he made his own wines. In his brief period at Tingchow he had experimented with a kind of wine made with tangerines, and with a pine wine, which was sweet and slightly bitter. In his dithyramb about this, he mentioned the boiling of pine resin, but it is not clear how he made the wine. At Huichow he made cinnamon wine and ^for the first time tasted a particular product of south China, chiutse. This was rice wine taken before it was fully fermented and contained very little alcohol; in effect, it was like souring ale. Once in the introductory note to a poem he mentioned tRat while he was straining the wine, he kept on drinking it until he got dead drunk. In a letter to a friend he gave the formula for making the "Wine of Divine Unity". This divine wine consisted of the holy trinity of white flour, glutinous rice, and pure spring watejf and it was the colour of jade. The very best quality of wheat flour was mixed with yeast and was made into yeast cakes which were hung up to dry for two months. Then he boiled one bushel of rice and after taking it out and rinsing it under running water, let it stand to dry. Then he took three ounces of the yeast cake, ground it into a fine powder, and mixed it thoroughly with the rice. This was then put in a jar and packed very tightly, leaving a conical depression in the centre. Some of the yeast powder was reserved to sprinkle on the surface of the fermenting liquid in the hole at the centre. When sufficient liquid was formed, the packed rice was cut open and new boiled rice was added to it at the rate of three pecks for every bushel of the original content, together with two bowls of boiled water. After three to five days, about six quarts,of good wine were formed, but the length of the period varied with the weather. In a hot season one should decrease the amount of yeast by half an ounce. It is fair to assume that Su Tungpo was a competent dabbler in wine- making rather than a real expert. Wine-making ^vas merely his hobby.